如何选择岩鞋:
Reference1---Youllwantasnugbutnotpainfulfit.Goabitlesssnugforall-day-longroutes;quiteabittighterforthoseshortoverhangingtest-pieces.Keepinmindthatmostshoeswillstretchaquartermostlyinwidth,notmuchinlength.Correctfitthroughthetoe-boxareaiscrucial---ifthereareanypainfulpressurespotshere,tryadifferentmodel.Besuretoloosenthelacescompletelytotheendofthetoeboxbeforeputtingontheshoe.Weartheshoesaroundthehouseabittocheckthefitbeforeyougoclimbing.
参考一:穿起来舒适且不痛,但略小一点,穿久了会不舒服。大部份的鞋子两侧比较紧,前后比较不会。指尖部份要合脚最重要,如果爬起来会痛就换另一种型的。穿鞋时记得把鞋带全部松开,上场之前先穿著走看看是否合脚。
Reference2---Ilanasguidetoclimbingshoesforeverybody
参考二:如下表,愈厉害的人穿得愈紧。
Level
程度
Beginner
入门
Novice
初学
Competent
老手
Expert
专家
Who
Yoursoulwhothinksyourecrazy,butiswillingtotryit
Hasactuallyclimbedonrock,andknowswhat‘friendsare
KnowswhoDerekHerseyChristianandGriffithChristianare
Friends*are*DerekHerseyChristianandChristianGriffith
Does
Climbs5.4,eyesclosed,screaming
Climbs5.9,stillscreamssometimes
Climbs5.11,nomorescreams
Solos5.11
ShoeFit
Comfortable
Snug
Tight
Cutsoffcirculation
Size
Sameassneakers
Asizesmaller
WouldfitCinderella
Wouldfitafour-year-old
How
Armsgiveoutlongbeforefeethurt
Feelsgoodtotakethemoffatendofday
Loosensshoesateachbelaystance
Mustsoakfeetinhottubatendof1pitch
Quote
“Areyou*sure*Imnotgoingtokillmyself?”
“IbetIdclimb5.10ifmyshoesweretighter.”
“IbetIdclimb5.12ifmyshoesweretighter.”
“Couldyoulookandtellmeifmyfeetarestillthere?”
如何保持岩鞋的干净:Usesoap,water,andabrushofsomekindtowashyourshoes.Donotuseanypetroleumproducts,alcohol,orsolvents.Donotexposeyourshoestohightemperaturesoranopenflameinanefforttospeedupthedryingprocess.Youmaywanttochecktheinstructionsthatcomewithyourshoes.Thedishwasherisrightout,asistheblowdrier.Tostopandpreventyourclimbingshoesfromsmellingitisnecessarytokillthegerms(bacteriagrossus)livinginside.ThebestwaytodothisistospraytheLysol(来舒)intheshoeswithoutgettinganyontheoutside.Lettheshoedryandsprinklesomepowderin.
如何保持岩鞋的干净:用洗洁剂刷洗,但不要用石油或去渍油等溶剂。不要将鞋放在高温处或高温烘干,看看鞋子的说明书,烘碗机和吹风机都不行。为了去除岩鞋味道,必须将霉菌消灭,最好的方法是喷一些来舒在鞋子里面,并保持干燥。
如何保持岩鞋的摩擦力:Rock-shoerubberoxidesandhardensovertime,andcangiveyouthatskiddingfeeling
onclimbing.Takeastiffwirebrushtoyourshoeeverysooften.Abriskscrubbing
willremovethathardouterlayerandgiveyouanew,stickiersurface.
如何保持岩鞋的摩擦力:岩鞋的橡胶会慢慢的氧化变平,攀岩时会变滑,用硬的铁刷把外面刮去,就会有新的表面。